Jerash is north of Amman, and to its north west is Ajloun. Here the country is hilly and quite thickly forested with coniferous trees. Atop the highest peak (at least it looks like it) is the spectacular Qalaat Ar-Rabadh, a 12th century castle built by Emir Izz Ad-Din Osama, a cousin of Saladin. You can see it perched up there from miles away, and from the castle, the views of the surrounding countryside stretch far and wide in all directions. Inside is a maze of corridors, small rooms from which you can glimpse any approaching enemy through the arrow slits, wells, niches and nooks and a small museum. From the top you can feel a marvellous cool breeze. Outside was a boy selling figs.
Along the approaching roads are numerous fruit and vegetable stands with their gorgeous displays of tomatoes and pomegranates.
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